ABN Chain Breaker Tool Kit with Storage Case - 13 Piece Rivet and Roller Chain Link Removal Tool for 35 to 630 Motorcycle, Bike, ATV Chains

I purchased this breaker tool for use on a motorcycle build, for 530 chain. I was very pleased when it arrived, as the case is well-made, and holds all of the attachments securely. The main tool itself is very sturdy, and is made out of solid steel. I was initially worried about buying such an inexpensive kit, because very often, the quality of these kits is subpar, but I am happy to say that is not the case with this kit.There are multiple anvil and punch options included, and all of them work well, even on large 530 section motorcycle chain. Punching out a link was easy, but I would advise grinding the head off the pin you are punching out prior to beginning. This tool could probably exert enough force to push the pin through without grinding, but the process is much simpler if you remove the head first, and will increase the life of your tool.I was pleasantly surprised that the tool was able to successfully peen the head of the pin to secure it into the chain - many of the cheaper tools will break, or be unable to exert enough force to successfully round the pin over. Just take it slow with this step, and check your progress incrementally, and it will do the job!Overall, I'm very happy with this purchase, and plan to keep it in my emergency kit on the bike, in case a chain breaks on the road.

Overall it did everything it was supposed to do. I'd probably give it 4.5 stars since the metal may not be the highest quality, but it did do everything I needed to take off the old chain and put a new one on. It is true there is no instruction manual, but I honestly think most people would do better watching one of the many you tube videos available how to use this tool anyway. You'll hear two different views when it comes to breaking the chain. Some say grind it down so you can push out the link easier. Some say don't grind it down so the tool will fit over the link you're trying to push out. I ground it down so I could push it right out, which it did. This is the time to be careful though. A lot of people report the metal pin breaking. I took the extra few minutes to ensure the push pin was exactly lined up with the link and slowly pushed the pin a little at a time to make sure the pin was pushing the link out. In other words, only have the push pin on the link being pushed out and not any other part of the chain. If it's lined up correctly, there should be a much better chance the pin won't break. Once you know it is starting to push the link out, it is easy to line the push pin into the indented hole and push it the rest of the way out. As for putting on the master link, one video had a good idea of using a caliper to measure the distance (thickness) of a regular link. As you use the tool to install the new link on, just squeeze it a little at a time to get it to the same thickness as the regular links. You don't want to over-tighten the master link. If you feel this tool is something you may only use a handful of times in your life, it certainly does the trick.

I don't know who is leaving positive reviews here for this junk! I *might* work for a bicycle or moped chain, but as an experienced mechanic, I had a terrible time with this thing. It failed in 4 different ways and was unable to do the job.Black steel is supposed to denote tool-grade-8 steel. The blackness of these parts comes from paint, not forging. Matter of fact, a spark test of the components revealed that they are a mild-non-hardable steel. Your chain components are going to be forged and hardened, so when trying to flare the rivet, the tool crumbles before the flare can be made.The "C" portion of this tool (which commonly fails with cheap versions of this tool) is actually meaty and up to the job. However, the tooling bits are mild steel and simply crumble. When braking or cutting the chain, I use an angle grinder to flatten the pins and make it easier for the tool. After only 3 pressed pins, my pressing bit was visibly deformed. Also, to do a motorcycle chain, one must remove the spring, as it prevents the pin driver from pressing far enough through to completely press out the pin.The tool survived the process of seating the master link.However, when trying to flare the hardened pins with the anvil and rivet tool, you can see that the tip of riveting tool simply crumbled and took on the shape of the pin. When pressed further, the bolt stripped. I happened to have a hardened bolt that fit the thread and quickly ground a flaring tip onto it. At this point the weak collar simply snapped off before the pin was able to be pressed into the .55mm shape specified.Bottom line, this is not a tool. It'a a look-alike. And its going back.

This was great for me, I was installing a 525 chain on an SV650 for the first time. For $26, I’ll take it, in comparison to other chain tools that cost upwards of $100-150. Breaking the chain down was very smooth, after grinding off the top of the rivet. Using the press plate was good as well, it just has to be CAREFULLY done to make sure that the pins don’t become misaligned with the plate and cause damage. The only place there was an issue with for me, was riveting the pins in place. The amount of force that it requires to properly rivet the master link to spec is also enough force to bend the tool itself and I didn’t realize it was bent until I tried to put it back in the case and it didn’t line up. I think the tool could be re-used in the future though if you were to put the tool in a shop-vice and press it back straight. For the price, can’t beat it. If it hadn’t bent, I would be giving it a 5 out of 5 stars.

PINS WILL BREAK! Can still find a way to do what you need with all the other items.